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MetalSpoon

Can I run it?

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That's there plan pretty much! and if you get the supporting video card you can even crossfire to use the resources of both the integrated and dedicated.

 

well with my A8 5600k I was able to play APB:R (which has a lot of custom logo/gfx constantly loading for each player and there car) plays great on high with minor jitter but I would recommend medium for optimal performance and low for great performance

 

the reasoning it plays decent on high is because it has a shorter path to talk with the CPU and the memory being built in to the CPU and beside the memory

 

Nice! and for the HDD?

And will this setup allow me to record dayz at low/med and 30 FPS? that would rock

 

 

 

And it is IDE, but I might invest in this for now, $12 isn't much, and i'll upgrade to SSD after a while

Edited by MetalSpoon

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Nice! and for the HDD?

And will this setup allow me to record dayz at low/med and 30 FPS? that would rock

 

Read up ^ about the HDD

 

well currently I can't even record dayZ with a steady fps due to all the lack of optimization but I am also trying to record at 1080p quality and at full gfx :) but I have not actually tried to record with the integrated GPU i can't see it being bad though esp with graphics dumbed down, just make sure you install the AMD Catalyst drivers for the GPU to make sure you get maximum performance from your GPU

 

 

YES SSD is the way to go my friend I recommend the OCZ Agility or Vertex brands I love ABSOLUTELY LOVE my agility 3 installs windows 7 from usb no more then 7minutes (minus windows updates)

 

when your getting in to SSD's though you MUST run your SATA in AHCI mode to protect your SSD's lifespan (it's easy to switch it from SATA/IDE mode to AHCI)  before you install windows it needs to be AHCI (Auto Host Control Interface) it is what lets your windows tell your SSD when to permanently delete an object from it to free up space again with out that your ssd will just fill up and then be read only eventually.

Edited by s32ialx

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Read up ^ about the HDD

 

well currently I can't even record dayZ with a steady fps due to all the lack of optimization but I am also trying to record at 1080p quality and at full gfx :) but I have not actually tried to record with the integrated GPU i can't see it being bad though esp with graphics dumbed down, just make sure you install the AMD Catalyst drivers for the GPU to make sure you get maximum performance from your GPU

 

Cool, sounds good. Read up for my IDE question^^^

 

So basically what I'm getting out of this is for ~$300 I can make a computer that runs basically any game at at least 25-30 fps, at least on minimum? 

Also, is the PSU i posted on the other page compatiable with this setup?

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Cool, sounds good. Read up for my IDE question^^^

 

So basically what I'm getting out of this is for ~$300 I can make a computer that runs basically any game at at least 25-30 fps, at least on minimum? 

Also, is the PSU i posted on the other page compatiable with this setup?

I have never used such type of adapter but if it works then it will do as a temporary fix yes.

 

(this is your power supplies connectores)

1 x Main connector (20+4Pin) < yes perfect

1 x 4-Pin ATX 12V < will work but better if you have the 2x4-pin 12V but not NEEDED

6 x Peripheral < IDE power

4 x SATA < SSD and sata power

1 x Floppy < who uses this anymore :P but your adapter will need this

1 x PCI-E < the GTX 650Ti needs this BUT

 

I think you need a 500W PSU for the 650Ti and yours is a 430W

I recommend this if you plan to upgrade it at all

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3SD1AN2222 500W (The price on the website i think is 100% inaccurate and I'll explain why in Canada that PSU is $49+tax and it's marked on newegg as $200.00 discounted to $67.41 Save: $132.59 (66%) and YET the 600W version is only $64.... no discount just $64 even so i think someone was not paying attention to what they input for the 500W but either way I recommend the 500W or the 600W i run both I have 2 of each and have sold many computers with them they are stable and supply very very stable voltage and have many fault protections built in. Just to reference here is the link to the 600W to compare the price http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153166 )

 

when dealing with power I will NEVER sell an uneven amount of watts 400 - 450 - 500 - 550 etc never a 430 475 etc it just doesn't sound stable to me that they couldn't even it out .

 

just because i hate not providing facts here's the Canadian website (retailer) that sells the 500w brand new $49 http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=442&item_id=040841

Edited by s32ialx

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I have never used such type of adapter but if it works then it will do as a temporary fix yes.

 

(this is your power supplies connectores)

1 x Main connector (20+4Pin) < yes perfect

1 x 4-Pin ATX 12V < will work but better if you have the 2x4-pin 12V but not NEEDED

6 x Peripheral < IDE power

4 x SATA < SSD and sata power

1 x Floppy < who uses this anymore :P but your adapter will need this

1 x PCI-E < the GTX 650Ti needs this BUT

 

I think you need a 500W PSU for the 650Ti and yours is a 430W

I recommend this if you plan to upgrade it at all

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3SD1AN2222 500W (The price on the website i think is 100% inaccurate and I'll explain why in Canada that PSU is $49+tax and it's marked on newegg as $200.00 discounted to $67.41 Save: $132.59 (66%) and YET the 600W version is only $64.... no discount just $64 even so i think someone was not paying attention to what they input for the 500W but either way I recommend the 500W or the 600W i run both I have 2 of each and have sold many computers with then they are stable and supply very very stable voltage and and many fault protections built in. Just to reference here is the link to the 600W to compare the price http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153166 )

 

when dealing with power I will NEVER sell an uneven amount of watts 400 - 450 - 500 - 550 etc never a 430 475 etc it just doesn't sound stable to be that they couldn't even it out .

Wow thanks! Will my PSU right now run it, or will I need to upgrade? I don't mind if it's not perfect, my current setup is much less then perfect. 

Also, would my wonderful 2 GB of corsair ram run until I can buy the 8GB, or is it incompatiable? If I could save that $90 on ram, I could practically buy this tomorrow. 

 

 

 

EDIT: Also how can I identify if X part will work with Y part (Motherboard is the big one). I have some friends who have spare gaming stuff, and I would like to sound less stupid if I ask them if they have anything they could send my way

Edited by MetalSpoon

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you need to find that out for you self but if it's 2GB i don't think DDR3 comes in 2GB sticks

 

install this program http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/1.68-setup-en.exe

 

don't just trust my link read up on it here http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

 

it will tell you what type of memory you have... actually i'll just check your motherboard wait for an edit...

 

YES your psu will run the motherboard/apu/ram/hdd currently but upgrade before or when you get a dedicated video card

 

negatory on the RAM your running DDR1 400

 

you could get away with buying 1 stick of 4GB DDR3 but I wouldn't recommend it honestly becuase to upgrade you must match the memory putting different memory esp different manufactures can cause more issues then good majority of the time

 

if you can't do the $90 buy two of these at separate times the only reason it's better to buy kits its for putting them in dual channel mode which increases performance

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104384 $48 4GB DDR3 1600

 

the reason i recommend PNY graphics card and Kingston RAM they offer lifetime warranties which for the prices are much worth it you know it's quality because they won't offer 25year warranty on something that will die easily

Edited by s32ialx

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you need to find that out for you self but if it's 2GB i don't think DDR3 comes in 2GB sticks

 

install this program http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/1.68-setup-en.exe

 

don't just trust my link read up on it here http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

 

it will tell you what type of memory you have... actually i'll just check your motherboard wait for an edit...

 

YES your psu will run the motherboard/apu/ram/hdd currently but upgrade before or when you get a dedicated video card

M'kay cool. Also, with that motherboard you posted, it seems people are complaining it does not support Kaveri/APU. Is this the case? If it does not support the A8 I want nothing of it

 

 

Edit: For your ram edit, that makes sense. Will I notice much difference between 4 and 8 GB if I was to do that? On my current setup with 6gb I run TS, facebook, Stream music and play games (BFP4F/World Of tanks atm) and it seems fine

Edited by MetalSpoon

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4GB should be fine for most things but if you plan to record at the same time the extra 4GB will help oh it doesn't support the A8?

 

give me a minute to research a bit I will edit.

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4GB should be fine for most things but if you plan to record at the same time the extra 4GB will help oh it doesn't support the A8?

 

give me a minute to research a bit I will edit.

Yeah, I'm not sure, remember I'm a hardware newb. If you could do that I would much appreciate it

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OK no need to edit since you posted! the Kaveri/APU are the new FM2+ A10 APU's

 

if you go with the A10 or A8 Richland chips you will not have a single issue... the issue is (which is a retarded one imo) they support the Kaveri chips with a bios update but how do you update the bios with out a cpu right? well some of the newer ASUS boards like my A88X Pro i can flash the bios with out a cpu just by putting the bios on a usb stick sticking it in a specific usb port and pushing a button on my motherboard (with proper power hooked up of course) and it will update the bios but I didn't spend the extra coin on a Kaveri chip as the Richland was good enough in my eyes i mean 4.4Ghz with stock heatsink and fan is great :)

 

but my board was $149+

 

My system motherboard and apu

 

ss5.pngss6.png

Edited by s32ialx

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Oh so the one you sent me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113333) is good because it's a Richland?

 

 

Oh ok nice! And also, whats the difference between the $90 Motherboard and the $57 one? I only need 3 USB's (Joystick, Mouse, Keyboard), and I don't use all ya'lls fancy stuff

Edited by MetalSpoon

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Oh so the one you sent me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113333) is good because it's a Richland?

 

 

that's correct that is the exact APU that I am currently typing to you on ^-^

 

This chipset which are feature sets and instruction sets

 

Bolton is a newer chipset better instructions and features more stable like when the xbox came out the red ring but that was fixed with the xbox slims kinda thing right

 

 

here is a Bolton chipset for $79  which is still good enough i just threw the $90 one becuase you prefer mid range performance over lowend and don't need highend so i gave you a mid range price but the $79 should theoretically be the same quality for what you need

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132045

Edited by s32ialx

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that's correct that is the exact APU that I am currently typing to you on ^-^

Ahh cool. I edited my last post (:

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that's correct that is the exact APU that I am currently typing to you on ^-^

 

This chipset which are feature sets and instruction sets

 

Bolton is a newer chipset better instructions and features more stable like when the xbox came out the red ring but that was fixed with the xbox slims kinda thing right

 

 

here is a Bolton chipset for $79  which is still good enough i just threw the $90 one becuase you prefer mid range performance over lowend and don't need highend so i gave you a mid range price but the $79 should theoretically be the same quality for what you need

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132045

Oh I didnt actually realize that motherboard affected performance that much, I figured it just connected everything. 

So if I was to do this now, I would pro***ly go with...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113333 APU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104384 RAM

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132045 Motherboard.

 

For a grand total of ~$250. Not bad at all.

then I would upgrade in this order

PSU to the one you said

RAM to 8 GB

Motherboard to something better

SSD

APU

Go from there

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Oh I didnt actually realize that motherboard affected performance that much, I figured it just connected everything. 

So if I was to do this now, I would pro***ly go with...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113333 APU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104384 RAM

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132045 Motherboard.

 

For a grand total of ~$250. Not bad at all.

then I would upgrade in this order

PSU to the one you said

RAM to 8 GB

Motherboard to something better

SSD

APU

Go from there

 

Beautiful isn't it but at the end you said APU did you mean GPU as in a dedicated video card like the 650Ti? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133473 < that's the one I have it's  Lifetime warranty. I think i linked the Canadian priced eariler or maybe the Ti Boost but i don't have the Boost just the 650Ti 1GB you might want a 2GB model but i suggest PNY for lifetime warranties.

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Beautiful isn't it but at the end you said APU did you mean GPU as in a dedicated video card like the 650Ti? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133473 < that's the one I have it's  Lifetime warranty. I think i linked the Canadian priced eariler or maybe the Ti Boost but i don't have the Boost just the 650Ti 1GB you might want a 2GB model but i suggest PNY for lifetime warranties.

I guess we'll see. If the processor is still good but the GPU is outdated, then i will get a dedicated one.

If they are both old then to hell with it, get a new APU

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amen to that!

 

I tend to buy parts that will last me as long as possible as I'm am on a fixed income and I have to do work and get paid with the hardware I want for the job I do as I can't just fork out my cash to get new parts as I need so I make sure I get the best I can for the lowest price I can with the best warranties and stability and functionality. the motherboard I would have got something lower but all the other boards that Canada Computers had were special order and I needed to replace my primary system that day so my friend gave me the cash for it since I have spent many hours building his network/systems and still have more to build gotta build him a mini one same cpu as mine A8 6600k for his boat that way he can chill in his boat watch movies play some decent games etc and since I basically work for free for friends they repay me by helping me fix my system when it goes down which by the way i pick my parts is rare :D

 

that and I treat my systems good I give them a cleaning of the insides every few months at the latest and clear all temp cache etc at least once a week.

Edited by s32ialx

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yep  if this is the exact order your buying each part

 

PSU to the one you said

RAM to 8 GB

Motherboard to something better

SSD

APU

 

then no worries i might get the APU before the SSD though. SSD's are not really justifiable complete for the price, IE less then $100 can get you a 1TB Sata HDD but $100+ for only 120GB SSD... or $160+ for a decent 240GB...

 

also for SSD's my recommendations are ADATA, OCZ or Corsair ( I have no personally seen any other in action but those 3 I have seen I use OCZ and Corair and I have bought for friends and my GF the ADATA ones and they are stable and just plain fast! I mean your talking 10-50 seconds your in windows ready to go.- passwords etc.

 

but you could even get away with an SSHD (Solid State Hybrid Drive) it's an SSD and HDD in one.

 

let me do some price research for you and post some suggestions for ssd's sshd's etc.

 

 

Edit ok wait if you go SSD what size are you comfortable with getting in space. ie 64GB 120GB 128GB 240GB 512GB etc

Edited by s32ialx

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SSHD -
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178381 1TB $96
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178380 2TB $119


SSD -
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211603 256GB ADATA Premier Pro SP900 $129
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211597 256GB ADATA XPG SX900 $149
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227967 256GB OCZ Vertex 450 Series $159

there are obivously other brands makes but I have seen with my own eyes ADATA and OCZ's quality and the prices are not much better infact  ADATA is the lowest costing SSDs as far as i can see but as you can see the price difference is huge.

the Differnce is with speed of writing and reading your data and files

HDD's might get 60ish MB/s
SSHD's your looking at around 180MB/s
SSD's anywhere faster than that I linked SSD's that were 500MB/s + I think all had a 530MB/s Write
(which is how fast moving files around on the ssd to saving files from on drive to another etc)

and like 550 Read which is how fast the system opens files

and that's all in MB/s not Mb/s Mb is Megabit and that's how fast your internet speeds are and transfer speeds like Sata III is 6Gb/s which is apox 600MB/s give or take MB is MegaByte that's how much size a file is not how fast is transfers.

just thought I would mention that incase you didn't know and were wondering

 

OH and the other benefit of SSD over HDD and SSHD is the SSD has 0 moving parts so it can handle a much harder gforce and you can literally pick your PC up and shake it if you only have an SSD in there and no spinning disks... I know I've done it xD i used to twitch and kick my pc before and it would lock up and freeze because i made the hdd skip that won't ever happen with an SSD.

Edited by s32ialx

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If you are still reading this, one final (pro***ly) question. Would this setup be able to run BF4 or crysis 3? Even on low?

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If you are still reading this, one final (pro***ly) question. Would this setup be able to run BF4 or crysis 3? Even on low?

 

Never played or tried Crysis but yes it can def run BF4 on low esp once/if you get an dedicated video card

 

things with APU's is it uses your RAM for the video memory becuase it has none of it's own.

 

another thing is make sure you install windows 7 x64 not x86 as x86 only supports up to 3GB of ram so 5GB would be unusable.

 

I never personally tried BF4 exclusivly on the APU graphics by the time I was beta testing it I already had a dedicated card for graphics, but i can't see it not playing it but recording and playing is another story.

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