svardskampe

So, there are so many topics about "this rig", "this computer is ok?" and so on, I'm deciding to make a topic around the subject where everyone with the same question can take a look at and help themselves with these questions. I want to have this guide completely noobproof, so I'm starting with the beginning, but write it so more experienced, or people with lesser interest in the subject can skip some parts. The basics As we have to start somewhere, I'm going to explain what parts are in a computer, and what they do. This post is entirely skippable if this knowledge is already known to you or you simply don't care. The CPU This part is a square chip, which can be compared to the engine block of the computer. It handles all the calculations your computer does (minus the graphical, we'll come to this part later), so you can imagine, the better this part is, generally the quicker your computer gets. It could be another part of your computer can't handle the situation, which is nowadays more the issue than the CPU for that matter. The part that slows your computer down the most is usually referred as the bottleneck. Two main manufacturers are out there competing each other on this specific part; Intel and AMD. Where Intel mostly holds the crown in overall performance, AMD tend to give a better bang for the buck (another common expression you will hear when discussing computers). Specifications for this part: - The series/architecture of CPU; all families of CPU's have a name: Bulldozer, Athlon, Sandy Bridge, Nehalem to name a few, this gets translated into their serial number. An older intel Nehalem (or Lynnfield) will look like this; i7 860. While a newer one like a Sandy Bridge will have four numbers: i7 2700 for example. I refer to wikipedia if you want to explore your CPU of choice further. - The clockrate of the CPU: Referred to as "Ghz". Important Clockrate doesn't say everything. A newer core 2 duo of 1.8 GHZ is definately faster than a Pentium 4 with 3.0 ghz. Don't stare on this specification blindly. Also note that a difference of 0.2 ghz in clockrate is barely noticable, so don't overspend yourself by buying a CPU which costs 70 euro/pound/dollar more just for those spare clockticks. (The more experienced computer user is able to overclock it and achieve this without spending extra bucks. This is quite an advanced trick and if you read this guide because you are unexperienced on the subject, don't even think about it. I have seen too many blown CPUs of elder people fried because their nephew or grandson tried his little trick). - The number of cores on the CPU. Important You can't simply x2 the ghz when it has 2 cores for example. Multiple cores handle tasks simulteanously, where a quicker core (more ghz) handle the task more quicker. Some programs are badly written or old, and don't use the option of using multiple cores, and will be stuck on using only 1 core of the entire CPU. Also, the same applies with number of cores as with ghz, more is not necessarily better. It's always a mix between the number of cores, the speed and the family according to their price. Some CPU's feature "hyperthreading", which means it uses the cores it has twice at the same time. It's generally not worth more than €40 extra for the non-HT version as it doesn't work that often on most applications and programs. These "fake" cores are usually referred to as "logical cores", as true, real cores are referred to as "physical cores" Picture of the damn thing; http://content.hwigr...ews/core-i7.jpg Pricerange of the decent stuff: €120-€450 RAM Memory In these kind of chips you put the stuff you are busy working on. May it be a word document, or a game, it gets loaded in the RAM. Until you save the current progress (hitting the floppy sign, press "save",...), what you are doing is volatile, and when the power goes down, it is lost. There are too many brands to discuss, but some notable ones are: Corsair, Crucial, GeIL, Kingston, G.Skill. Corsair is my personal favourite, though you are free to think otherwise. Important when someone refers to "memory", he refers to this part, and NOT the harddisk where you save your stuff permanently. Specifications for this part: - The amount of memory, referred to in gigabytes. Most computers nowadays hold up to 16 or 24GB. - The speed of the memory, referred to as mhz, or in very few cases in ghz as well. (1024 mhz = 1 ghz, but people may use 1000 mhz = 1 ghz as a quicker way of expressing it, so 0,2 ghz = 200 mhz). The common speed in RAM is nowadays 1600 mhz, no real need to get much higher than that, since it will increase the price tremendously. - Choose to use as few modules as possible. So if you opt for 8GB, be sure to have 2 modules of 4GB each, and not getting 4 modules of 2GB each, as they are rendered useless when you want to upgrade later. - Also important; be sure to install the 64-bit version of your OS, as you won't be able to address more than 3.2GB of RAM when you install a 32-bit version. Picture: http://cache.gawker....4x_ramstick.jpg though when you buy a brand, it is mostly covered with a heatspreader and will look like this: http://www.slipperyb...atorddr3-sb.jpg Pricerange: €40-€60 euro for 8GB. Double it up and fill your system up if you like to. 16GB is not uncommon anymore these days under gamers and other high-end users. Laptops usually go from 4GB-8GB. Graphics card This part is a later addition to the common computer and is nearly solely manufactured for games and 3D applications (3DS Max, Autocad, Blender,...). It can be considered as a small computer inside of a computer, but with a very specific task; to handle the graphics on your system. A graphics card has a processor, (like a CPU), only this time it has a lot of cores, and is quite low on clockspeed in general. This specific detail of the graphics card is called a GPU (graphical processing unit). It maybe has 200 cores, but 'merely' a top core speed of 1200 mhz (=1.2ghz), and most cards don't top that and keep around 600-800 mhz. The card itself holds its own RAM as well, called VRAM (video ram), to lighten the burden of the common ram. Important It is a common marketing trick to compare the amount of VRAM, but it says nothing about the general performance in cards. You better compare the GPU number. The GPU is manufactured by mainly 2 companies. AMD (formerly ATI) and Nvidia. AMD again tends to have the better bang for the buck, (more performance for a lower price), where Nvidia is somewhat more user friendly as it doesn't have that many issues with drivers. (Yes, and I know a lot of people are going to reply "I NEVER HAD DRIVER ISSUES WITH AMD", well lucky you, but there are some people out there that do). The "issues" aren't a really big problem, you just have to recognise it's a bad driver version, and you better uninstall it, and install the slightly older one again. The card itself is manufactured by some major companies that usually deal in motherboards as well. As this isn't that important, I'm not going into detail here. The GPU is mostly what matters. Common card manufacturers are Asus, MSI, XFX, EVGA and Sapphire Notable specifications: - The GPU's number. It actually says everything you need to know. In AMD series, the number goes as follows; HD7850 for example. The 7 gives the series it's from, the 8 is the number which indicates what range of card it performs. (3 to 5 is crap, 6 and 7 is workable, and 8-9 is high performance), and the 50 is to give a smaller indication on which one is better. (A slightly better one would be 7870 for example). The Nvidia series, it's likewise (GTX 560 for example), only they hold onto 3 numbers. Subtract the 0 on the end of the AMD one and you get the same idea. Important: only compare the GPU numbers within its own brand. They follow different scales (like fahrenheit and celsius are different) and can't be compared just like that. For a better overview, google on "HD6850 vs GTX560 benchmark", and change the numbers to the GPU's you want to compare. You will probably find some detailed charts on which one is better. picture: http://img4.cherchon...50-1GBD5-DH.jpg Pricerange (decent ones): €100 up to maybe €500. It is possible to buy multiple ones (only watch out your motherboard support SLI when you're going for Nvidia cards!). It is a safe bet to maybe spend €150 on a card, and get a new one for the same price 3 years after you have built your rig. Motherboard Quite important, as this holds all your crap together. There are 3 main manufacturers out there for retail use: Asus, Gigabyte and MSI. Many other small ones are for sale as well, with their own little differences and quirks. (Asrock, DFI, Zotac, Foxconn and Intel). Personally, I really dislike MSI. Had many issues with their boards, chinafabs, don't last long (popped capacitors and shit). Asus is usually the best quality you can get, but really expensive, and gigabyte mostly has the favoured choice because of budget/performance reasons. When buying a motherboard, you filter first on - The socket you have chosen where your CPU will fit in - Whether is has multiple PCIe x16 slots when you want to have multiple graphic cards; you also need SLI support if you want multiple NVidia cards, though all the motherboards can run multiple ATI cards. (Just to check first if you have more than 1 PCIe x16 slot). The other slots like this one are also PCIe slots, though they are for other types of cards, like soundcards, RAIDcontrollers, maybe a specific SSD on PCIe or maybe an extra card for more USB slots. Nowadays all the motherboards come with DDR3 slots (for RAM), there may be 4 or 6 of them, depending on the motherboard and it's range. Usually they have 4. You might want to be sure your motherboard also supports USB 3.0 and SATA 6G. As this part of the guide concerns buying your crap, I won't go into detail on building everything up. Picture: http://ic.tweakimg.n...1333548770.jpeg Price range: Might be around €60-100 if your demands aren't the highest (1 Graphics card, common socket,...), though could rank up to €120-400 if you want some more specific features. Storage Storage is where the big numbers come in. Due to some floodings in Asia in the recent past, the prices of harddisks have risen a lot, though stabilising again at this moment. This is basically where you put your software shit. Your games, your music, your movies and everything else that's saved. At this moment, there are 2 types of storage you can choose from; SSD: Solid State Disk. It's a small, really fast storage device. They come around €0,70 per GB now, which is really affordable. Renowned brands here are Samsung and Crucial, every other brand seem more like a...lesser choice. Make sure you choose an SSD which supports Sata 600 (otherwise referred to as Sata 6G), and be sure to plug it in your motherboard in a sata 6G slot and not a 3G slot by accident. HDD: Common used in a lot of PCs. Lots of gigabytes, maybe terabytes. Costs around €0,05 per GB. Samsung, Western Digital and Seagate are the most common brands. Western Digital is my personal favourite, but samsung seems to give quite a good quality for the money as well. As I've ran into some issues with seagates, I wouldn't choose it again myself, but you may feel otherwise. Now: what should you get and how many? Well, that actually goes from one person to another, Depending on your situation, you may or not have a NAS or fileserver at home, then you would need less space on your own computer since you wouldn't have to store your movies and music there. I know people having only a 256GB SSD in their desktop, and they are happy with it, delete their movies after they watched them and only install the games they currently play. I personally would recommend to get at least a 120GB SSD, to install your Microsoft Windows (assuming you're using windows, don't want to offend the linux guys though, but they probably wouldn't be reading this guide) and speed-requiring applications on. Then add some regular harddisks for the other space you require to have. If you're really on a budget, stick with 1 regular HDD, but I can really recommend to get that SSD. It adds so much speed to your computer overall, booting in a matter of seconds and open applications without having to see the loading screen. As an example: (I've bought one of the first SSDs that were on the market, so keep that in mind) I have 1 SSD of 80GB for my windows and a lot of applications requiring the writing and reading speed, like 7zip and AutoCad. When I am playing a game which requires me to have a lot of power I'm installing it there as well (Metro 2033 for example), and deinstall it when I need the space again. Added with that I have 1TB (1024GB) for my games and another harddisk of 1TB for my music and movies. As they are getting quite filled up, I got myself an external harddisk of 2TB for all sorts of storage I don't necessarely want to access immediately. Backups mostly. Remember to backup important files to multiple places: My work documents are saved on my SSD AND on my music and movies disk AND on my external harddrive. Don't care about the installed games though as I will download them again if I feel like playing on of them, so I'm not backing that disk up. Important SSDs come in a smaller "laptop size", of 2,5 inch in diagonal space, instead of 3,5". Buy a bracket to place it in a normal space where a regular HDD would fit, tape it to the side of your case or maybe your case already supports smaller size storage devices. Important 2: SSDs don't add more FPS'ses in games, if that's your target, though it reduces loads times (when having the game actually installed on the SSD). An SSD improves the access times in "general use" of your computer. Moving files, opening documents,... Pictures: http://www.itutorpod...n-october-1.jpg http://img.tomshardw...00aajs-pers.jpg Price: already stated in the paragraph. PSU or Power Supply As this gives the juice to your beloved computer parts, don't cut your budget back on this part. Cheap brands may fry your motherboard, taking your CPU with it, and you just threw €500 in the drain. You need to be sure of how many watts your PSU needs to be able to handle. This can vary from machine to machine. Do you have a high-end graphics card? A high clocked CPU? More harddisks than is healthy for your back if you need to pick it up? Don't overbuy it too much though, as it will "leak" power and costing you more than you want in your electric bill. Generally, a PSU of 550 watt is pretty sufficient for a single higher end card, a normal CPU and maybe up to 5 harddisks. You want more than 1 graphics card? then I'd suggest taking a 750-850 watts one. XCelsior may have a good point somewhere int he third post underneath the OP. Recidivist linked a nice tool to check how many watt your PSU will you need: Recommended brands: OCZ, Corsair, XFX, Be Quiet!, Coolermaster (though coolermaster is noisy as hell) (generally the better brands get supplied by a company named Seasonic, which seams to be the best manufacturer out there)(hint provided by XCelsior) Most power supplies come with modular cables nowadays, which mean the cables have 2 plugs, one for the component en one for the power supply. Just as with normal plugs and sockets in a wall, be sure not to stack dividers on dividers, but just take a cable per one, maybe 2 components. Picture: http://www.ocztechno...ack_angle_1.jpg Pricerange: €60-€160 Case and cooling With these parts, you can go as crazy as you want, or stay on a budget and keep it humble. A lot of people use the standard heatsink with fan that comes with the CPU, and maybe 1 fan in the back of their case, there are some pretty nifty aftermarket coolers which can reduce your computer noise tremendously, and with better cooling performance. Just _THE_ CPU cooler for most of the builders is the Scythe Mugen 2, though you can opt otherwise. Be sure to know that coolermaster is a nice budget-y brand for coolers, PSUs and cases, they make a hell of a noise. Cases come in various sizes and shapes, just be sure that your case supports your motherboard size, which is mostly just the common ATX specification. Follow your budget, your taste and your preferences in these parts, just be sure to have at least 2 fans in your case. One in the front and one in the back. The front usually blows air in, and the back blows it out. (Your case might not be delivered standard with these fans, but they cost hardly anything extra). Some cheap brands offer cases+PSUs combined. Not really recommended, though my little brother is using one for years now (he really loved the case, couldn't get his thoughts away from it, with all the green light). You can go for a device in front of your case, called a fan controller to manually turn the fans down. I have one, and honestly, I don't use it a lot. So I'd advise to keep it out of your system if you're on a budget. (If you want to get really crazy, you can use water cooling. Though it's expensive and probably not for the audience reading this guide, I won't go into detail for that) Some 'special' cases to show what you can buy: Coolermaster HAF 922 Lian Li Cowry PCU6 all acrylic case - no brand Peripherals As you can't do anything with a case alone, you still need speakers, a monitor, mouse and keyboard,... Good guess is that you already have that kind of stuff, good guess is also you have low quality simple basic gear. When you are in the stage of just building your first PC, which is what I believe the target audience for this guide, you might be "MEEEEH, I'm happy with what I've got, this simple black mouse, and this simple white keyboard will do". Fine by me, but don't forget to return to this guide when you're over the "denying phase" It's hard to pick the right keyboard and mouse, as it concerns personal preference and overall touch and feel of the devices. Though not all is without specifications; mouses (recently I've learned "mice" is only used for the animal :P not the computer peripheral) have a certain "speed", which is expressed in DPI. You might be working on 1200 DPI right now, but the feeling of "THIS MOUSE IS TOO FRIGGIN JUMPY" will wear off pretty soon. Currently, my mouse has 4000DPI, and even when I'm just browsing and such it's still too slow for me. What a good mouse really needs: - max DPI of at least 3600, maybe 5700 if you can afford it for a mouse - back and forward button on the mouse. Usually you will assign it on different stuff than the original function of forward/backward, but they're really neat buttons to bind your grenade on and healthpack in certain games. - DPI switch you can use on the fly. For quickly lowering that DPI when looking through a (sniper) scope, and tick it higher when you're on an assault class. Mouses can cost from €50-100. Razer is overly expensive, I'm more suited with Roccat stuff which offer a much better price. Logitech is also a choice many gamers opt for, or maybe steelseries Same with keyboards. Sound is another thing. You might want surround sound from your speakers, or may want to choose for a headset. I'm having both actually, using my stereo as speakers, though many times I'm just using my headphones. A really good brand of headsets with microphone are Steelseries. The Siberia v2 and 5H are some really neat choices for their price. Though, personal preference with peripherals is a big issue. With monitors: Suit yourself. I like having 3 Samsung Syncmasters of 24" next to each other. You can't do much wrong here. Though if you want multiple screens, be sure to buy them at once. I used to have all different sizes before (in the big CRT age), but it's not ideal. If you have a friend who wants to buy a monitor as well, go together for the same line of monitors and buy them in big numbers and get a discount. Good price for a monitor would be €150-220 per screen. And this concludes this part of the guide in explaining the different parts, and helpful tips in buying them. More tomorrow on building the rig specifically in the next post.

I always think cases with neon are fairly kiddy in my opinion, more of a Lian Li fan myself, or some corsair vengeance casing where I strip the christmas lights out. (Corsair vengeance C70 military green edition for the army fans here Very good cable management and airflow. Personally I detest the Antec cases. They are loud as fuck, cable management is something they never heard of and hardly any options to attach a water cooling radiator. The only thing they are good at is being cheap + christmas lights...Yep, if you are happy with that.

Since all the forums have a topic like these, it can't be missed here. Certainly here with a community, not only for "gamers", but from a wide range of age and professions, I bet some people have more exotic needs than others. Show off your crazy USB missile launcher or other peripherals laying around and where you waste multiple hours a day of your life! As a starter; my desk. The desk itself is glass, from the Ikea GALANT series.

Nice Mutagen, and you can handle all of that on just 1 monitor?

There are some decent tablets for €100-160 already with android ICS if you search one yourself Xcelsior, though I would buy the Nexus 7 if I lived in America (still waiting for it to come to Europe :) ). My old Tegra 2 tablet goes to my little brother then.

Lol at that keyboard :P Retro ftw BTW Xcelsior, you now you can buy that mesh in a hardware store for like €1 a meter? Just so you can make it look neat and finished :P Btw, if you look for a Bamboo, the Wacom Bamboo Pen and touch is not that expensive (€60) and is quite nice :) Just not that big.

Glass desks ftw, glass coca cola bottles ftw as well. Where do you find them? I only see plastic ones nowadays, btw still not as ghetto as XCelsior's :P And really? I have just paid €30 for it when it was new. (Or not even 30, more like 27), the entire set with mouse was €60 I believe.

True that :P You actually have the exact same keyboard as I had before! the Logitech cordless wave. Still have it working in it's original box, only replaced it for my roccat arvo because this arvo has some nice macro keys under the space bar, (and a wire, which does have some notable quicker input from my perspective). So, if anyone wants that keyboard for a nice low price, dunno, 10+shipping maybe?, he can have it. (I live in the netherlands btw, so that you know shipping is only affordable if you live in Europe xD) What do you actually use as a standard to put that car seat on?

1. I used to do a lot of 2D graphical shizzle, (not photoshop, the GIMP). I used 2 monitors once, in the old CRT days, and it was just nice to have something next to where you were working. 2. With the coming of ATI Eyefinity, it was quite awkward to look right on the bezel, so I got 3 monitors instead. 3. While working, even just writing a paper, I can have a few pages of information next to my work document. 4. Why 3 individual screens instead of a big TV? For 600 euro's I could have gotten a 37" inch, with the resolution of 1920x1080. You tell me what you prefer, 3x24" with a total resolution of 5760x1080 or just 1920x1080 once? 5. The bezels actually are nicer to organise your workspace. Of course it's always possible to work with small windowed apps, but it just nicely *snap*, *snap* *snap* instead of manually resizing everything. (There are some software workarounds like Hydragrid, though I prefer the physical borders). PS. also just did a year of architecture. Lot of photoshop and AutoCadding, also an additional reason to have multiple monitors. All by all, the main reason is just the big resolution of 5760x1080, instead of a lousy single 1920x1080. Not just for professional reasons, but everything combined. @Govnogaming: You mean my desk or my desktop as in wallpaper? :P Desk: €200 Ikea, GALANT. 160cm frame, white glass plate and T-legs Lights you see under the desk: Sharkoon 2in1 CCFL kit white (30cm): €8 per 2 bars. I used 5 bars to fill up my desk in width. Camera: Sony DSC-HX9V: €250 (but I bet you have better price/performance camera's for around €150. Just bought this more expensive camera for professional reasons (architecture)) Wallpaper (open in new tab or view image for the full resolution): Also disclaimer for some people; my total resolution is 5760x1080, some people might use 1200p monitors. Add black bars to your preference or use ultramon as a manager and "center" the image as a property. (Though the AMD promotional one is 1200p) But I bet the guys here like a more DayZ-styled wallpaper. And lol XCeslior :P love the shabby-looking solution of just laying plank on an open cabinet; "sooooo, fixed"

Really, ApplejackDaniels already gave you a hint on where to start looking. Maybe you try to listen to the comments in your own goddamn topic? Just for fucks sake; here's the link again he gave you: http://www.dayzmod.com/forum/index.php?/topic/37402-the-ultimate-guide-of-buying-a-decent-computer/ Btw, building your own PC is like having sex. The first time is always the best, after that, it just becomes a routine job. Any questions regarding general stuff, please post them there (as I can put them easely in the FAQ), if you seek confirmation in the parts you have chosen, you might want to do that in your own topic here.

If there is one thing to learn from this guide, it's that you need to build your own, and this guide explicitly explains everything about it. But nevermind, 1 post and that shabby english? Probably a troll

I don't feel that way. Arma is DayZ, and nothing else. If I bought arma for arma I would seriously want a refund and turn my CD key back in.

So much win :P

I always use Asus motherboards myself, their onboard is really decent enough. With my headset on I can't notice a difference between onboard and someone else's system with an Creative X-Fi, though there is a difference when hooking it up on an amplifier. (Asus do make seperate soundcards as well), though if you're still looking for one, you first have to determine what you want; 3.5mm jacks or USB. (Mostly determined by the type of headset you've got). You've got 3 big brands actually: Terratec, Asus and Creative, with their full names with series of soundcards are: Terratec Aureon (good and low-priced) Asus Xonar (quite expensive, no experiences with it) Creative Soundblaster (Decent, if you're fan, go for it.)

You shouldn't :P Speak your heart out

With a ball mouse, don't forget the ball mouse

Just commit suicide...You're on a spawn location after all

Explaining HT further is of no use in this shorter guide to get into computer hardware. I already stated few programs actually make use of it and often isn't worth the added cost it brings. Good point on the difference architecture/series, will add it. Whoops, I typed €0,50 instead of €0,05. Thanks for noticing though. In nearly all the best buy guides the internet offers, ALL of them rather recommend crucial and samsung SSDs. Intel SSDs were nice in the beginning, as there was little alternative, but as always with hardware, intel gets pushed to the sideline and other manufacturers take the new spot. OCZ has a bad name due to flaws with the sandforce controller and patriot is a so-so brand just like Kingston. Find me a few best buy guides on the internet of today saying other manufacturers have a general better price/performance than Crucial or Samsung and I'll be glad to change that. And as more and more laptops get an SSD, not only to put the OS on, but as the only disk in the system, I suppose the future is far enough to state that an SSD is "really affordable", though I will surely point out it won't add any extra FPS'ses in games. If you buy new these days, 1600 is the common speed. With 1333 mhz you will be just getting the old and bottom stuff that's on the market today. (Don't event think a shop dares to sell 1066 mhz even!). I thought about explaining CAS timings, and left it out because the guide is already this long, and for the millisecond of speed in there, you will pay up for maybe €30 extra, figuring not many people will look at that. And 4GB-8GB is currently common in maybe laptops and OEM PC's, but nearly EVERYONE I know building and buying their pc at this very moment are choosing to fill it up with 16GB. Not one single exception. With the current prices of €40 for an 8GB set, it's probably the best budget/performance choice you could make. Will add the emphasis on using as low benches as possible, and maybe a comment about 64-bit to 32-bit, but as all computers come with 4GB at least, 64-bit is the only used version. Thanks for your contribution though, and please tell me if I rather should add a part about CAS timings after all, or whether it might be too far-fetched after all.

I worked quite some time on this topic, especially for people like you: http://dayzmod.com/f...ecent-computer/ The list the guy gave you isn't too bad, however, I would not go lower than 1600 mhz RAM these days, the coolermaster CPU cooler makes a hell of a noise and I'd think the 7870 is quite overpowered with what you need. 230 is a lot of money for a graphics card. I would rather put the money in a nice Samsung SSD (128GB or 256GB, depending on your budget) rather than an SSD that's so small you really have to be careful on what you install there and what not. And any decent desktop these days could run DayZ, arma is quite an old game for that matter.

too bad, these times is one of the few times I am around the coast, wouldve patched you up with a bloodbag :(

:o Combine this idea with throwing knifes, so you can throw a knife through a paper on a tree, or maybe crossbow+bolts. Would be epic to kill people with a bolt through their head holding a paper with "Lol, you died"

I've got this weird issue the game is not recognizing my scrolling up and down of my mouse when launching through SIX launcher or DayZCommander (neither context menu, nor menu's in the game options), while the game does recognise it when using the beta launcher. Though when I try to use the beta launcher, since last patch it always states my "connection failed" when I try to get into a server. Does any one know the answer to one of these 2 solutions so I can at least play decently?

Well, I have a gigabyte ghost m8000, which uses the windows drivers by default. The program with it is just to adapt the DPI settings. Tried mapping the mousewheelup and mousewheeldown button to the [ and ] keys, though it just seems that the game doesn't recognise the scrolling in itself when launching through six or dayzcommander. Scrolling works fine through the normal beta launcher. If you map your mousebutton #4 to the same function as scrolling down the game gets playable at least...(and mousebutton 5 for up of course). Well. for connection problems I'd advise to use a different launcher. There are three at the moment - Normal beta launcher - Six launcher - DayZCommander

You really don't need 5 friggin posts. I only needed 3 for this wall of text and wasn't even hitting the maximum. http://dayzmod.com/forum/index.php?/topic/37402-the-ultimate-guide-of-buying-a-decent-computer/ Estimation fail.

Well, it would be helpful to label tents. Meds, foods,...