svardskampe

Well, in my specific issue, I get a "connection failed" through the beta launcher, however I can connect just fine through Sixlauncher or DayZCommander, however when I boot the game with the latter two my scroll wheel doesn't seem to be recognized by the game, rendering me unable to use the context menu and basically playing the game :( Reinstalling stuff doesn't seem to help in any way. BTW; already made a topic about it, but it seemed alright to repost the issue here as well; http://dayzmod.com/forum/index.php?/topic/42009-scrollwheel-not-workingconnection-failing/#entry404078

Guys, please, can I get a hand at this? The problem is still persistant D:

Tell me more how it's like to have so many friends that you have :)

Yay, thank you :)

Lol, it was really all of a sudden "and now I'm going to write a huge wall of text about it so it will be clear for everyone" and at very moment actually wrote the first post, so ye, it really is a coincidence :P

I got myself 3 monitors, it crashes when you want to use more than 1 D: No but really, requesting this makes me want to shoot you, since it 's an option in a lot of servers. and "Not what a milsim should be bladiebla", ugh, you sicken me.

Nope it doesn't, it just stays on verifying beta files a REALLY long time so it seems to be stuck

Finally finished the entire guide. I hope everything will be clear, added the helpful comment of XCelsior in the guide. Hey, I just wrote this guide, and this is long as crazy, so can I get a sticky maybe? ^_^

Q&A Sooooo...I have read your guide, but still I have not a CLUE what's on the market, and where I should look for! There is this technology site in dutch, where they always suggest a few systems every 2 months. You can find the article for July here. Use Google Translate when you're unable to read dutch, but there is just no better Best Buy Guide on the internet than these. They have complete setups from as low as €275 to a high-end gamemonster rig of €1250. The Mainstream (number 3) setup will run Arma 2 and DayZ smoothly, and the basic gamesystem (number 2) will run it, though when you want a better experience than a lagfest, choose for a better CPU than opted there. Is this a good setup? Is this a good graphics card? Is this a decent... I am really not going to answer on each individual rig or component myself. You know the recommended specifications of Arma 2 and DayZ, you know what I've told you in the guide, go decide yourself whether you should buy this or that component. No pampering, go find out your own shit. Erhm, what are the recommended specifications of Arma 2 and Dayz (cause I'm a lazy motherfucker and don't want to search it myself) http://www.game-deba...ation Arrowhead Can I use a laptop to play games? Depends on the laptop you buy, though if you want to buy a laptop suitable for gaming it has the battery life of a chemlight, the overall life expectancy of maybe just 2 years and the graphical limitations of a woman trying to read a map. You can, but you won't get a satisfying gaming experience. I'd suggest to buy a desktop, and maybe save a little bit on the graphics card and case/cooling and buy a nice android tablet of €200 or a secondhand Ipad if that's your thing for the portability. And if you need to work mobile as well, then it's required to have a decent laptop and a desktop to keep the fun and work seperate. Though when not into graphical stuff, you just need to make text documents, and you can do that just as well on a tablet, or a €300 laptop. If you want to game; look for a workaround. Maybe have a desktop at work and at home, maybe a cheap laptop, maybe a tablet. This is expensiiiiiiive. I better go back to my cheap console in order to game! Jim Sterling has made quite a nice video about that issue; you might want to watch it. http://www.escapistmagazine.com/videos/view/jimquisition/6014-Xbox-360-and-PS3-Are-Just-Very-Crap-PCs I admit there are some very nice exclusives I'm not able to play on a PC. I'm talking Red Dead Redemption here, LittleBigPlanet for PS3 and Xenogears, Mario Galaxy and Super Smash Bros. and monster hunter tri for the wii. Looking for a nice secondhand wii for €70 just for that, but my PC comes first as my desktop doubles as a workstation. Feel free to ask questions if something is not clear to you. As in, questions to explain something or to clarify a part better. Not the "Is this setup ok?"-kind of questions.

Building and assembling As we have been through the part where every component gets explained, people with prior knowledge can hook up onto this part of the guide again. You're unsure of your qualities, and maybe you think you will fuck everything up, destroying your beloved constly electronical circuits. Usually, the shops that sell these parts also offer a price where they will build it for you. This price usually goes from €30 to €70, even some ripoffs charge €45 an hour x3 so costing you 135 in total. Though this is what the fun part about the computer is. Like real life crafting :D The first you start with, is to discharge yourself from any previous electricity. You can do this by touching a radiator of the central heating system of your house, if you have european plugs, sometimes it extends a big pin which you can touch as well. (France and Belgium use this system I believe), while some have other sprongs and things to ground it. Important never put objects in the holes. Holes are made for your safety so you wouldn't touch the internals, while prongs and pins are "touchable", indicating it is indeed safe. Picture of a european socket with a pin: http://www.canford.c.../49-4066_01.jpg Now that you are sure you won't discharge static on your parts, take your motherboard out and put it flat on the table. Just pick it up on the edges and place it on a firm table. (Not a wiggly one).This is the time you are really going to build it :D. Let's start with our most expensive part of the entire system: the CPU.There is this big square field with seemingly a lot of small holes and a handle. 1. CPU A picture to clarify Open the handle by pressing it a little bit down, outwards, and all the way up, following the green arrow on the picture. this will open the safety thing. Now, unpack your CPU. It comes with a plastic guard you need to keep with you to send it back to the manufacturer under warranty or whenever you want to sell it to someone else. Look closely on how the CPU will fit. Most of the times, there is this corner which is ending like it has been cut off, you can see that on the socket as well. (Practice: you can see it on the picture in the most right corner of the socket). Place your CPU carefully, and it will fit like a glove. Push the handle down to secure the guard. (Some people who are careful are surprised with how much you would actually have to press, you will be terrified you're breaking it somehow when you're doing this the first time, however you are not. Keep courage and move on). 2. RAM Next step is to add the RAM modules. They are placed in the longest thinnest lines of the motherboard. Usually in pairs of 2 and 4 in total, or in pairs of 3 and 6 in total.When you want to place them, you open up the locks on the sides. They are black on this specific picture, but they may be white in general (the locks, not the slot itself). Look where the notch inside the slot matches the notch in your module. and press it evenly so the locks jump back to their fixed position. When you just have 2 RAM modules because you had enough with 8GB, or you have different kind of brands, remember to put 1 in each pair of slots. So number 1 will be filled up. 2 empty, 3 will be filled up and 4 empty again. If you are mixing different brands or types of RAM. (When you bought it years after you made your PC because you want to upgrade), change them accordingly. So let's say you have 2 Crucial and 2 Corsair modules. (Also commonly referred as DIMMs), you will have in slot 1. Crucial, in slot 2 next to it Corsair, Crucial again at number 3 and Corsair in number 4.These modules always work in pairs or in triples. Picture 3. CPU cooler The final thing to apply when your motherboard is still laying flat outside of the case, would be CPU cooler. You may or may not have bought an aftermarket cooler, there is hardly any change in building it up. Around the socket, you will find 4 holes, matching the 4 plugs on your cooler, and indeed, that's where they exactly will end up. But first this; Important! This is the part where you actually can fuck it up. Just follow this guide carefully and it will turn out right, but think twice about everything you're doing in this step! Unless you use the standard CPU fan, which already has applied thermal paste, if you buy an aftermarket one, it surely would have not. But either you got a tube of thermal paste with it, or either you don't and need to buy a new tube yourself (€3). Put a bit of this thermal paste on top of your CPU. This little bit shouldn't be more than a small piece of rice. a small line of maybe 5mm in length. Now you need to spread the paste evenly over the top of the cpu. Do it with a piece of plastic, mostly provided, or what my preferred method is; take a piece of toilet paper and wrap it around your finger and polish the CPU with it in circles. I would do the same with the bottom plate (which attaches to your CPU) of your cooler, and the layers should be as thin as you can still see the metal shining underneath. Apply the cooler on the CPU, push the pins down in the 4 holes and turn them around. Push 2 pins diagonally each time, otherwise you will stress one side too much. If you did this right, there will be no wiggle room left, and should feel attached to the motherboard firmly as a single piece. If your CPU cooler contains a fan, it will have a wire with a plug with 3 holes. Around the socket there will be these 3 pins you can put it on. (If you want to search for it on the picture, it's just left of the green square to show the DIMM slots. If your CPU cooler doesn't, and it just a heatsink (large block with a lot of plates), you need to uncheck the safety check in the BIOS (or UEFI nowadays) of the motherboard later before you can proceed to use it. Most motherboards won't boot standard when not having a CPU fan attached as a safety measure. You may or you may not have troubles when having a big CPU cooler, touching the heatspreader of the RAM modules or even render you unable to place it. You need to think for yourself here a little bit. Maybe you can move the fan on the heatsink on a different side? Maybe you can use slots 2 and 4 of your DIMMs instead of 1 and 3? In the worst case, you might need to remove the heatspreader from the RAM module. Be sure to put them back on when returning for warranty. 4. Case Take your case and put it sideways, so you have the open side on top. You will have these distance screw you need to place on the backplate of your case. Usually there are at least 6 of these screws. Put your motherboard on top of them and secure it through the holes provided in the motherboard. You should have got a small metal plate (I/O shield) with your connections cut out, you need to place this in the provided space in the back of your case and place your motherboard so it matches perfectly. If it doesn't seem to match perfectly, you probably have attached it to different holes in the backplate than you should. Just try again until you find the right holes :) (There are different sizes of motherboards, using different holes for screws. These sizes are defined as ATX and variantions on that, like micro-ATX, E-ATX, ITX, CEB,...For normal PC consumers, you will probably have an ATX size motherboard, or if it seems like only half of a normal motherboard, it will be a micro-ATX variant. EATX is for the bigger boys). With the case, you will probably want to connect your connections on your case and your on-button. These extension pins on the bottom side of your motherboards are used for that. Be careful on what plug fits what socket, to clarify, every different plug has a different "hole" filled up, so you are not able to place it on a wrong socket since the pin wouldn't fit. Picture Be careful on the "front" plug though, since your case plug doesn't necessarily match your motherboard. I remember that the plug on my case was wrong and had to cut the plug up and rewire them myself. Nowadays this isn't such a problem anymore since you can put a screwdriver in it, and the wires will detach. Various lights, HDD SW, POWER SW (or PWR SW) POWER LED and RESET SW are the most common small parts of this bigger plug. Refer to your motherboard manual on how they should be placed. I believe that Asus motherboards give you a nice in-between-piece where everything is written on and you can place it as a single big plug. Other manufacturers may deliver this as well. Tip: Do place your BIOS speaker when you're building it for the first time. If everything works and runs alright, you can remove it as it can get quite annoying. (Every time you boot your PC in can beep for a single time, if your motherboard supports the function of "single beep = ok"). This small speaker is used to determine failures and faults with the hardware when it can't boot properly and you won't be able to view the screen, you may determine the error from the amount of beeps it returns. 5. Harddrives and optical media (internal peripherals) Screw your harddrives, SSD and optionally optical media you have in place. (Optical media = DVD drive, memory card reader or even a floppy driver if you want to. I didn't include this part in the "parts and buying" section is that you don't really need it and it's fairly optional. You can install Windows from USB stick, and really, I even threw the DVD drive away from my laptop and replaced it with an HDD caddy because it's so obsolete). Some harddisks and motherboards or even the power supply can hold your SATA cables to attach your harddrives. they are usually red or black and flattish. Put one end in the harddrive and one end in the motherboard. Motherboards these days have 2-4 Sata 600 (6G) ports and the rest of them being Sata 300. Be sure to attach your SSD if you have one to the 600 connection and attach the rest of your drives to the 300-ports. 6. Graphics card Depending on your case you might want to screw the PSU first in place before placing the graphics card (due to limitations in space when screwing it fit). However, I generally save the PSU until the end. So, you have one of the biggest parts of your system in your hands right now, along with the CPU one of the more expensive ones as well. Place it in the big long slots lining up horizontally most of the times. If you have multiple PCIe 16x slots, and only one card, choose the one so your card has the most free space to "breath". If you have 2 cards, you need to fill them both up obviously. Graphic cards have a small open side on top when you buy a higher end one. This is where you place the Crossfire bridge or SLI bridge when you have multiple cards. The clicking system works just like the DIMM slot system in most case. It is entirely possible your graphics card doesn't line up perfectly with the slots in the back of your case. You may want to use a different slot if you have multiple PCIe x16 ones, or if you don't, you might need to get the real tools out and dremel or cut a space for your graphics card. Don't do this obviously with your motherboard and stuff still in it :P http://i.imgur.com/fRlUw.jpg If you try to boot and you don't get anything on your monitor, you might have attached the video cable to the motherboard instead of the graphics card. You should always attach it to the graphics card if you have one. The same connection on your motherboard is for when your graphics card is broken, or you simply don't have one because you don't play games after all. (Not likely with this target audience of the guide). 7. Case fans You still have some work to do on that airflow (also, important expression). Probably you will have at least 2 seperate fans on your case. At least place one in the front, which blows air IN the computer, and one at the top of the back, which pulls air OUT. If you have spare fans, you can place them on the bottom, on the top or on the door of the case, where your case allows it. Airflow is very important thing in air-cooled computers. There needs to be a constant stream of air of going in and out, possibly running through the fins of your heatspreader and blades of your heatsink. Cables can prevent this airflow, so place them stragically with this in mind. Some people ask me why this works this way; well imagine the other cases where All fans pull air inside the case: the pressure would rise inside of the case and more pressure, means higher temperature. and all the fans pull air out of the case: you're basically opposing forces rendering the use of your fans to zero. One fan wants to pull the air into an opposite direction and the air is practically completely still. A nice picture with a typical airflow: http://itsjhworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/airflow-2.jpg 8. PSU Time to screw that big block in place. It could either be placed in your case on the back in the top, or on the bottom. Depends from case to case, but the higher-end stuff usually put it on the bottom. attach cables accordingly, remember to even the load of your components on different cables. Checklist of what to attach: - The big 24-pin on the motherboard. - The seperate 4-pin or possibly 8-pin around for the CPU. (You can see it behind the blue VGA port and the blue heatspreader on the picture I've been using all the time). The cable for this might be too short for your case. Buy an extension cable or go all McGuyver yourself. - The graphics card usually take up an 8-pin, or some higher ends even require 2x 6-pins or even 2x 8-pins cables. - All the harddrives and optical media require a fairly wide Sata power connector. Some use molex (4 pins next to each other). - All the case fans usually require a molex connector which you can use as a kind of extension cable for molex. Use this to your advantage! Picture of a (female) molex connector 9. Software And there is your PC! :D Boot up an OS, from which is Windows probably your choice since you play games. Alternative OSses which are basically free is linux, which comes in different flavours and variaties. The easiest and most common ones are Linux Mint Ubuntu Check there if you are interested more in them. I can make a new guide about linux if the interest is appropriate for them, though you will find plenty on the internet. Another alternative is using Mac OS of course. Though it is rather hard to install this on a home-made computer (apple doesn't want you to install their OS on a homebuilt PC), and you need certain specific hardware components. If you are interested in it further, I can refer you to; Hackintosh But as I assume, your primary choice will be windows 7 at the moment. It costs around €100 retail though there are some "darker paths" to get a free windows copy. As I am on thin ice encouraging downloading Windows 7 somewhere for free, I'm not going into detail here in public.

Lol, I have seen you a lot playing on LU88. And have seen you dieing a few times as well. My IGN is Svardskampe like my forum name.

AKM, unless you dislike the iron sight of it. (I would prefer an AK Kobra over the AKM just for the sight).

I've actually searched for those forums to know what NOT to do, since I saw here it was so abundantly abused; - NEVER pick up any item without a small picture next to it in the gear menu. - NEVER check so-called "ammo crates" (I believe they are blue), as they are hacked in. - NEVER run scripts yourself, even for good or legit use, since it can get you a permaban without you being actually "hacking"

Would choose the M4 CCO over the M16 any day. While you can simply find an m16, it's harder for an m4. Most of the fights are withing the 200M range and thus go preferably to the M4. >200M and a sniper wins. If you have the option, choose the M4, no doubt.

Since you seem to be quite new, I will share my information with you, but with you alone. Don't really feel like posting it up for everyone here in the public Send me an e-mail or add that mail to MSN or Skype (same e-mail for everything).

Lol, where something inherently "evil and illegal" is actually required to fix a company's failure.

They're passwording their servers since the amount of cheaters has gone out of hand...For every cause there is a reason.

I am a good guy, with my group as well. That's actually how we found the group. If we see some people or just 1 guy looting Berezino from a distance, we'll just wait until they're gone. The only people we've killed are people that first turned their fire onto us, or obviously murderers. (People settling with a sniper rifle pointed towards cherno). We've had some people come and go in the skype group, Slovenian, Norwegian,...I've never spoken to before, but met over DayZ. Hint: Hit caps lock to use voice comm. in DayZ, and don't open with "FRIENDLY FRIENDLY FRIENDLY", but rather "hey there, how's it going, need some help?"

I've read a lot of pages in this topic, and did that Scott guy and Sigma guy ever some real response? And I'm a buyer of the game too, just for the DayZ mod. In my opinion Arma 2 is a bad game that didn't deserve my money. I believe in the USA the cases of Scott and Sigma would be some material for a court case even, too bad those 25 bucks is not really worth it to build a case upon and injustice and plain money stealing (since paying for a service and then don't deliver that service) is one thing which makes the real world even worse. It's one thing to ruin someone's game world, but in the case of that Scott and Sigma, Rocket is being guilty of making the real world a worse place, which is in my opinion even more something to be frowned upon.

The unconscious thing is actually usefull to use on groups if you are solo. With this tactic, some guy managed to sweep our entire group (4 people) and stealing our pickup truck and skoda today :P. He must be nearby though, can't have crossed the map in that time back and forth.

It seems that there's this universal knowledge base, everywhere on the internet there are lists, maps, at multiple sites and helping places about the possible vehicle spawn. I've discovered a new vehicle spawn which is nowhere documented, not in any list or map, and I can confirm it's indeed a spawn since I've been in many servers checking it, and it seems 100% confirmed :) On the other hand, I'm not sure whether I should make it public, since it seems that it's rather the only place where I always seems to be able to fetch a vehicle :). What do you guys think about it, what I should do with it? From one perspective I'd like to contribute, on the other side there's this personal egoïstical aspect of me finding a car there most of the time since no one else has found it before. Just fyi: It's always a white GAZ

Thank you very much, just what I was asking for :D. Though, I think from the comments I'll keep the information to myself now, might reveal it later at some point.

Uhm, it's not that rare actually. As I've never seen goggles in the game, (I did as a scope on the FN FAL though), I've seen many M14's (and DMRs for that matter). Your offer is quite unbalanced at the moment :P Not saying that I have goggles to trade with you, I don't

Yes yes, and then we will sell these skins for €10 each! No, all bullshit put aside, it's true though, but I think anyone would just choose the ghillie-ish/black clothing to be in a more advanced battle situation, rather than a bright pink shirt.